Gardening Glossary:  W

Wahlenbergia.—The hardy perennial kinds thrive best in pots, the soil in which should be kept moist. The annuals, which are raised on a hotbed in March, may be planted out in May in a warm situation.

Waitzia.—Very beautiful half-hardy annuals, but more suitable for the greenhouse than the open flower-bed. They require a sandy peat and leaf-mould, and the pots to be well drained, as too much water is as destructive to them as too little. They may be had in flower from May to August by making two sowings, one in September and the other in February, and keeping them in the greenhouse. When large enough to handle, pot off into 3-in. pots, putting two plants in each pot close to the sides, and shift them into larger ones when they have made sufficient growth. Place them in a dry and airy situation and near the glass. They are unable to stand the least frost, therefore, if they are planted out, it should not be done before the beginning of June. Height, 1½ ft.

Waldsteina Fragarioides.—A hardy and pretty trailing rock plant, with deep green foliage. From March to May it bears yellow Strawberry-like flowers. Any soil suits it, and it may be increased by seed or division. Height, 6 in.

Wall-flower (Cheiranthus).—These favourite hardy perennials prefer a rich, light, sandy soil, and a dry situation. The seed may be sown where it is intended for them to bloom either in autumn or spring. Thin out to 2 ft. apart. They may also be increased by shoots torn from the stems of old plants. As well as flowering early in spring, they often bloom in the autumn. Height, 1-1/2 ft.

Walnuts.—The Nuts for raising young trees may be planted at any time between October and the end of February, 3 in. deep and 1-1/2 ft. apart. Train to a single stem 8 to 10 ft. high, removing all the side branches as soon as they make an appearance. The following year they may be planted in their permanent position, which should be high, yet sheltered from frost. Two of the best tall-growing varieties are Thin-shelled and Noyer à Bijou. The Dwarf Prolific makes a good bush tree.

Wand Plant.—See "Galax."

Wasps.—To destroy Wasps rinse a large bottle with spirits of turpentine, and thrust the neck into the principal entrance to their nest, stopping up all the other holes to prevent their escape. In a few days the nest may be dug up. The fumes of the spirit first stupefies and eventually destroys the insects.

Water-cress.—Sow in prepared places, during spring, in sluggish brooks and moist situations; or it may be grown on a shady border if kept moist by frequent waterings. It may also be grown in a frame in September from cuttings placed 6 in. apart, sprinkling them daily, but keeping the frame closed for two or three weeks, then watering once a week. Give all the air possible in fine weather, but cover the frame with mats during frosts. It is best when grown quickly.

Watsonia.—Plant the bulbs during January in sandy loam with a little peat. They flower in April. Height, 1-1/2 ft.

Weeds in Paths.—These may be destroyed by strong brine, applied when hot. Or mix ½ lb. of oil of vitriol with 6 gallons of water, and apply, taking care not to get the vitriol on the hands or clothes.

Weigelia.—Free-flowering, hardy, deciduous shrubs, the flowers being produced in profusion along the shoots in April, and varying in colour from white to deep crimson. The plants will grow in any soil, and require no special culture. All the varieties force well, and may be increased by cuttings. Height, 6 ft.

White Scale.—See "Scale."

Whitlavia.—A hardy annual, needing no special treatment. It may be sown in autumn, and protected during winter in a frame, or it may be raised in spring in the open ground, where it will bloom in June. Height, 2 ft.

Whortleberry.—See "Vaccineum."

Wigandia Caraccasana.—A stove deciduous shrub which thrives best in a mixture of loam and peat. Cuttings in sand will strike if placed under glass and in heat. It flowers in April. Height, 10 ft.

Windflowers.—See "Anemones."

Winter Aconite (Eranthis Hyemalis).—This is one of the very first of flowers to bloom, being in advance of the Snowdrop. In the bleakest days of winter this little flower covers the ground with its gilt spangles. Plant in early autumn. Any soil or situation suits it, but it does best in a light mould and a moist, shady position, or under trees. Most effective when planted in masses. The tubers may remain permanently in the ground, or they may be lifted and divided in summer, as soon as the foliage dies down. Flowers are produced from December to February.

Winter Cherry.—See "Physalis."

Winter Heliotrope.—See "Tussilago."

Wire-worms.—Before using mould for potting purposes it is advisable to examine it carefully and pick out any Wire-worms that are in it. For the border the best traps are small potatoes with a hole cut in them, buried at intervals just beneath the surface of the soil.

Wistaria.—This noble wall plant may be abundantly produced, as a long layer will root at every joint. It will also grow from cuttings of the plant and root. Though of slow growth at first, when well established it is very free-growing and perfectly hardy. It may also be grown as a small tree for the lawn or centres of large beds by keeping the long twining shoots pinched in.

Witch Hazel.—See "Hamamelis."

Withania Origanifolia (Pampas Lily-of-the-Valley).—A hardy climbing plant, attaining a height of 20 or 30 ft. in a very short period. The foliage is small, but very dense and of a dark green, the flowers being white. It may be raised from seed, and when once established the roots may remain undisturbed for any length of time, merely removing the stems as soon as they are destroyed by frost.

Wolf's Bane.—See "Aconite."

Wood, to Preserve.—In order to prevent wooden posts, piles, etc., from rotting, dip the parts to be sunk in the earth in the following composition:—Fine, hard sand, three hundred parts; powdered chalk, forty parts; resin, fifty parts; linseed oil, four parts. Heat these together in a boiler, then add red lead, one part; sulphuric acid, one part. Mix well together, and use while hot. If too thick, more linseed oil may be added. This composition when dry attains the consistency of varnish, and becomes extremely hard.

Wood Lily.—See "Trillium."

Woodruff.—See "Asperula."

Worms, to Destroy.—To each 5 lbs. of newly-slaked lime add 15 gallons of water. Stir it well, let it settle, draw off the clear portion, and with it water the surface of the lawn, etc. The Worms will come to the top and may be swept up. Worms in pots may be brought to the top by sprinkling a little dry mustard on the surface of the soil, and then giving the plant a good watering.

Wulfenia Carinthiaca.—A pretty and hardy perennial from the Corinthian Alps, suitable alike for rock-work or the border, throwing up spikes of blue flowers from May to July. During winter place it in a frame, as it is liable to rot in the open. It needs a light, rich, sandy soil and plenty of moisture when in growth. Cuttings will strike in sand; it may also be propagated by seeds or division. Height, 1 ft.

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